Miscellany
Watching wildlife in Panamá
by
Richard T. Corlett
Darkened conference rooms are not the ideal place to recover
from 12 hours of jet lag, so I decided to go 5 days early to the Association
for Tropical Biology meeting in Panama (29th July – 2nd
August, 2002), to give myself time to adjust. From the web site, the
Canopy Tower – a converted radar station in the rainforest - sounded
the ideal place to do this: "– in the dining room, a cup of
coffee and rolls await you. Settle down at a table next to the window.
Above the endless tropical forest of Soberanía National Park,
a ship glides through the Panamá Canal. The hooting of a distant
troupe of monkeys punctuates the birdcalls. You keep your field guide
open on the table in front of you beside your rolls and fresh orange
juice. In complete comfort, you greet the morning sun. Nothing obstructs
your view. Through the unscreened open window, nature carries on its
morning business"
The reality was slightly different. My first night at
the Canopy Tower ended abruptly when my alarm went off at 5.30 a.m.
Soon after dawn we were birding along the famous (to birders) Pipeline
Road. Following lunch and a couple of hours rest, we were off to another
bird-watching site and the day finally ended at 10.30 p.m. after several
hours spotlighting for night birds. Subsequent days were somewhat less
energetic, but all were spent in serious birding led by Carlos or Josè,
the Tower’s immensely knowledgeable bird guides. I hit my first hundred
bird species in less than two days, and my final total was between 120
and 140 species, depending on how clear a view you need for a tick.
Among many other species, the final list included 5 species of pigeon,
5 parrots, 7 hummingbirds, 4 trogons, 3 motmots, 3 puffbirds, 3 toucans,
4 woodcreepers, 9 antbirds, 13 flycatchers, 3 manakins, 5 wrens, and
14 assorted tanagers and their relatives. My personal favourites were
the distinctive Great Tinamou, the long-tailed Squirrel Cuckoo and the
Crimson-crested Woodpecker. I also saw both Two- and Three-toed Sloths,
Geoffroy’s Tamarins, Western Night Monkeys, Mantled Howler Monkeys,
Red-tailed Squirrels, Central American Agoutis, a Forest Rabbit, several
White-nosed Coatis, and a Kinkajou. Not bad for 4 days with a completely
new fauna.
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view
over the rainforest
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The Canopy Tower is set among semi-deciduous rainforest,
with some familiar pantropical plant genera, such as Schefflera,
Ormosia and Sterculia, as well as such strictly Neotropical
genera as Gustavia (Lecythidaceae). Disturbed areas are dominated
by pioneer species of Cecropia and Miconia, which both
provide a continuous and abundant supply of small-seeded fleshy fruits.
One morning from the top of the Tower (coffee and rolls at hand, as
promised), we watched the magnificent Keel-billed and Chestnut-mandibled
Toucans, the incredibly blue Blue Cotinga, the incredibly green Green
Honeycreeper, and several species of tanager, feeding together in the
same Cecropia tree. At least another dozen bird species fed in
the same tree at other times.
Serious
birders favour the dry season, when Panama’s diverse resident bird
fauna is supplemented by numerous migrants from North America. The
wet season, however, is cooler, cheaper and far less crowded, and
the rain rarely interrupted our field trips. There are alternatives
to the Canopy Tower but, wherever you stay, I strongly recommend
professional guides for all but the expert. The Neotropical avifauna
is the most difficult in the world – dominated by a few, exceedingly
diverse families – and my subsequent attempts at independent birding
convinced me that A Guide to the Birds of Panama (R.S. Ridely
& J.A. Gwynne, 1989) is no substitute for being told what a
bird is and how to recognize it in future. |
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breakfast
at dawn
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A
Cecropia tree
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