Vertebrates
(pdf)
Birds
of Paradise in Irian Jaya, Indonesia
by
Andy
Cornish
In
late July I visited the Raja Ampat Islands in Irian Jaya (also known
as West Papua) to dive their superb coral reefs. On a day off (the Papuan
staff were all Seventh Day Adventists and so do not work Saturdays),
I took the opportunity the visit some nearby Birds of Paradise, birds
that are mostly endemic to New Guinea. Wake-up was at 5 am and a boat
sped me across the channel from our dive camp on Kri Island to the much
larger Gam Island. A guide appeared out of the dark from the local village
and led me by torch for a half hour trek up into the rainforest where
a crude hide had been made 10 m up a tree looking over a traditional
"display" tree for the Red Bird of Paradise (Paradisaea
rubra). Males of this spectacular species are bright red apart from
a dark green head, yellow neck and chest and have many long tail feathers
including two elongate "wire" feathers. P. rubra is
endemic to a small number of islands in western Irian Jaya and there
are conservation concerns about it due to hunting for skins (the feathers
are used in traditional costumes) and habitat degradation, according
to Birdlife International (www.birdlife.net).
Three males were present as dawn broke, periodically their squawks would
increase in frequency and they would fly up to some large, leafless
branches at the top of the tree and above the forest canopy, extend
their wings and swoop back a perch several metres below. This went on
for 20 minutes and I wasn’t terribly impressed. The birds were a good
10 m away and above so I could see little more than a small silhouette,
even through the zoom on my camera. Worse, the mosquitos had discovered
me.
I
looked down to the forest floor expecting my guide to be thoroughly
bored and was gobsmacked to find him watching the birds with a pair
of decent Olympus 7x binoculars I hadn’t noticed previously. I borrowed
these off him and just in time, as the sun hit the top of the canopy
and the true beauty of the birds became apparent, three more males appeared
and the contest to attract the ladies reached a new intensity. Their
efforts weren’t wasted as within minutes, one and then another of the
drab females landed in the tree. The males were visibly excited but
the rules of courtship appeared to be that the female had to make the
first move, even after one of the females liked what she saw, and hopped
up to one of them. He started swaying from side to side in front of
her and things seemed to be going well but they disappeared behind some
foliage and it was impossible to say whether copulation took place.
On the way back later we also saw Blyth’s hornbill (Rhyticeros plicatus),
Eclectus parrot (Eclectus roratus) and Sulphur crested cockatoo
(Cacatua galerita). HK$ 50 for the guide may not seem much
but it is more than a weeks wages for many Indonesians and counters
the money to be made from killing the birds for island villagers who
have virtually no other sources of income.
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